Price changes and more from MV Nautica

MV Nautica Dive Deck

MV Nautica is currently having it's annual refurbishments so that come the start of the Similan Islands and Mergui Archipelago dive season it will be all shiny and new.

The Nitrox system is being improved. The new membrane system will be able to produce unlimited Nitrox up to EAN38.

Also being added is a large HD display for viewing and editing your underwater images.

Nautica will also be raising liveaboard prices on 1 October 2011. Any trips booked before 1 October will still be at the old price. Also, any trips paid for in full before 1 October will receive a 10% early booking discount.

To see the Nautica schedule click here.

What to do in Phuket if it's raining

It's still raining in Phuket. Low season has finally arrived and some tourists may be wondering what to do when laying on a beach chair is out of the question.

Bangla Road Patong Flooded

A few Phuket rainy day suggestions:

• Go to the Cinema. Latest movies are on show at Jung Ceylon in Pa

Is this Phuket's busiest ever low season?

Phuket surfing is popular in low season

I was on Patong beach a few times last week. It was busy. Not high season busy but it certainly didn't feel like low season. There were two rows of sun loungers along much of the beach and at one time I saw 5 speedboats pulling parasailers. I remember just a few years ago the the beach chair owners would pack their loungers away for the low season and not return to the beach until mid October.

It's not just Patong beach either. Kata beach is also alive with tourists. There are quite a few surfers and body boarders enjoying the small waves. NaiYang beach is busy with kiteboarders. The beaches are really clean too. In previous low seasons I have bemoaned the amount of plastic garbage that washes up on the west coast beaches but it's not there at the moment, the beaches are spotless and the sea is a pleasure to swim in. I'm not sure who's doing the cleaning but it's working.

Back in Patong, which is after all the main tourist area, the Jung Ceylon shopping mall is packed in the day and the little strip of restaurants in there is busy at night. On Bangla road, the main bar strip in Patong, Tiger complex was full at 3am last Saturday. I mean full, even the bars right at the back. I remember being in there last August and it being nowhere near as busy.

Tiger bars, Bagla Road, Patong. Always popular

We keep being told that the global down turn is stopping people from travelling and that the strength of the baht is keeping people away but that's not what I'm seeing on the ground. May be it's the changing demographics of the Phuket tourist? More and more tourists are coming from Asia with it's booming economy and Australia with it's strong currency. We are seeing lots of Koreans, Indians and Russians at the moment. In July and August we've had plenty of Italian and Spanish customers as we always do at this time but in general there are fewer Brits, Europeans and Americans.

Dive boats are also going out full at the moment. I would normally tell people that the dive boats are less busy in low season but with fewer boats running at this time of year the ones that are running are taking advantage and cramming them in. It's the same on the Sea Canoe day trips which are also going out full every day.

Phi Phi island is also full, we can't book rooms in hotels at the moment, we've heard of backpackers sleeping on the beach.

The excellent weather for the first three weeks of the month have made Phuket feel like it's still the main tourist season to me. Tourists arriving at the start of August have had bargain hotel deals and high season weather, they were lucky. The weather has changed now though, it's been raining more or less continuously since Wednesday with flash flooding throughout Phuket. Tourists who arrived this week will not be so happy with their timing (apart from some of the Middle Eastern tourists who like the novelty of rain).

Phuket truly now feels like a year round destination. The weekends are even busier with Thai tourists coming in from off the island and expats from KL, Hong Kong and Singapore popping over for a short break.

Thai Driving License Renewal in Phuket

Phuket Land Transport Office

Last Wednesday I renewed my 5 year Thai driving license for a new 5 year license. The requirements and process seems to change from year to year so I thought I'd let you know what the system is at this time.

Go to the Phuket Provincial Land Transport Office in Phuket Town on Rattanakosin Song Roi Pee Road at 8.30am Monday to Friday. There's not much point in getting there early as no-one really forms an orderly queue but just pushes in when the doors open.

Those applying for a new license will be directed straight through to the eye test room. Those renewing a license should show their papers at the information table and she will collate them with the necessary form and then send you to the eye test room to the right.

Papers you need:
One copy of passport signed
One copy of visa and entry stamp signed
Proof of address which you can get from the Immigration office

Eye test

Your old license

On entering the eye test room place your papers in the tray. There is a short video showing what the three eye tests are. This was shown to us three times. There was then a 5 minute presentation in Thai explaining why we couldn't do those tests but would do others. The first test is an emergency stop test. Hit the break before the green lights hit 75. It's easy to do. Then second test is a colour blindness test. Pick the numbers out of the patterns like the photo here. The whole process takes about one minute. You then sign your name in the book and wait for the next stage in the process, the road safety video.

The Road Safety Video is shown upstairs on the second floor at 10am (we were told 10.30am but it started at 10am). You are free to leave the building while you wait. The video lasts one hour and covers 16 areas of the Thai highway code. It's a bit of a drag but there are some laughs in there  because the laws stated will not exactly gel with your experiences of driving here.

As soon as the video finished head down stairs to the counter and tell them that it's finished. They will give you your papers back and a queuing ticket to get your photo taken. This is also where you pay the renewal fee (255 baht for bike license, 505 baht for car license).

Next step around the corner to the photographers booth, put your papers in her tray and sit on the benches and wait. She will call you to have your photo taken and a minute later you'll have your new plastic license in a little plastic wallet. Hand over another 110 baht and be on your way. I was finished and out of there by 11.30am.

Tips.

• Do your car and bike licenses together to save time.
• You can do the test three months before or three months after the expiry date. Licenses always expire on your birthday and a 5 year license will run 5 years from your next birthday. So by doing the test just after your birthday and the expiry date you get almost 6 years instead of 5.

Mini Break from Phuket - Chiang Mai

If you haven't already visited Chiang Mai I highly recommend it. You can fly there from Phuket with Air Asia or Thai Air.

Why visit Chiang Mai?

Mae Sai Elephant Camp Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai City, located 700km north west of Bangkok and 300m above sea level in Northern Thailand offers a great addition to a Thailand beach holiday. It gives a glimpse of a different type of Thailand and it’s easy to meet local Thai’s, many of whom study at the 10 universities in the area. The people of Chiang Mai are proud of their city and its history as a separate Kingdom before Siam was unified.

Overlooked from the west by Doi Suthep mountain (1676m), Chiang Mai's atmosphere is softer and more relaxed than the southern beaches and Bangkok. There is a spiritual and cultural ambiance to Chiang Mai which is a cultural, religious hub for Thailand. The city is doing a good job of combining its historical identity as an ancient Lanna Kingdom with a new vibrancy of a modern city.

Prices are cheap in Chiang Mai too. A fruit shake that costs 60 baht in Phuket costs 25 baht in Chiang Mai. A massage that costs 300 baht in Phuket is 180 baht in Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai has beautiful Lanna architecture that can be seen in both old and new buildings. The countryside is also beautiful and you don't have to get too far out of the city to escape civilization and enter the jungle.

Chat with a Monk in Chiang Mai

The walled old town has 121 temples open to the public and can be explored on foot although tuk tuks are pretty inexpensive too and it's really worth getting an English speaking TAT guide to explain the cultural significance's to you.

There are plenty of nearby day trips or longer excursions to keep you busy from short elephant treks to longer treks into hill tribe villages. Chiang Mai is the gateway to local hill tribe villages of Karen and Mon ethnicities. Adventure sports like rafting, rock climbing, mountain biking and micro lighting are also popular.

Many people do no tours at all but just come to soak up the ambiance. Make sure that you include a Sunday in your itinerary so that you can enjoy walking street market on Sunday evenings which is full of stalls selling handicrafts and artwork as well as hundreds of food stalls.

Less energetic activities include cruising down the Mae Ping River, spa treatments at the numerous luxury spas or just enjoy a foot massage at one of the street side stalls.

The night bazaar (every night) in the centre of town is also hugely popular and the many restaurants that specialize in Northern Thai food are not to be missed. There are a few bars in town but Chiang Mai is not a party town like the beach resorts are.

Chiang Mai and the surrounding area is also a good place to shop for Thai antiques, art and teak furniture. Phuket residents can save themselves a fortune by buying their house furniture in the north and shipping it down to Phuket.

Chiang Mai is a useful staging post for trips further north to Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle or onto Laos, Burma and Cambodia.

Chiang Mai temple

When to go:

The best months to visit Chiang Mai are October to February when the weather is dry and at it’s coolest although Chiang Mai can be visited year round. October to December are the best months for trekking when the sky is clear, the mountains are green and there is less humidity. By March and April the humidity is much higher and the long sunny season has dried out the countryside. These are also the months that farmers burn off their fields which can leave the air hazy. May to September is the rainy season with September statistically the wettest month.

If you are coming in November try to plan your trip around the Loy Kratong festival which is held on the November full moon. If you are coming in April try to plan your trip around 13 April for the Thai New Year festival called Songkran (book your flights and hotel early for this). Northern Thailand celebrates Songkran for longer than the south of the country.


Where to Stay

Yaang Come Village

For a short visit stay in the central area close to the night bazaar. From this area you can easily walk to the old walled city. This is also the best place for restaurants, bars and shopping. Most daytrip attractions are less than one hours drive from this area. There is the full range of accommodation available in this area from 250 baht per night backpacker rooms up to luxurious 5 star hotels (ask us if you want recommendations).

The university area just outside the old town about 5 minutes drive from the night bazaar. It's a popular with travelers staying for extended periods or with ex pat residents and students. The area has plenty of trendy bars, restaurants and live music venues.

There are numerous small boutique hotels scattered around the surrounding countryside. Many are designed in the traditional Lanna style and are very beautiful. If you are looking for get away from it all tranquility these resorts are for you.

I stayed at the Centara Duangtawan which I booked with Agoda. It's a good value 3 star hotel in a great central location for the night bazaar, the old town and the nearby bars. If you want something more upmarket but still central try the Dusit D2. My mum stayed at the Dusit D2 and absolutely loved it. The Yaang Come Village is a beautiful boutique resort built in the Lanna style and just a short walk from the night bazaar.

Chiang Mai Nightlife:

Although there are a few beer bars in Chiang Mai this is not a party town, the atmosphere is more laid back. There are a few bars on Loi Kroh road and a few trendy cafes and bars in the university area.

My favourite night time venue was The Riverside bar and restaurant. They have 3 live bands each night, a mix of Thai and Western music. The food is good and so is the location on the river bank. When I was there the crowd was mostly Thai students and workers plus a few expats and a few tourists. It has a really great atmosphere. In the busy season it may be necessary to book a table in advance if you want to eat there.

Tiger Kingdom Chiang Mai

Mae Ping River at Baan Suan Restuarant

Baan Suan Restaurant

A Good Phuket Diving Dentist

Entrance

I know lots of divers who are nervous about visiting the dentist. None of like the dentist much but for divers there is the added fear of trapped air pockets under fillings that could later lead to pain underwater.

I therefore thought I'd recommend my Phuket dentist who is a diver himself. He was recommended to me by a friend, Mick, previously tourleader on The Junk liveaboard.

City Park Dental Clinic is on Phang Nga Road in Phuket City opposite the Royal Phuket City Hotel and close to Phuket bus terminal. It's a small, well established clinic with all the facilities that you would expect.

Dr.Veranit Haycharoensri (Dr Nid) is experienced, speaks perfect English and is very friendly. He is also a PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer.

Phuket Diving by Speed Boat

Speedboat Diving

I've just added a page to ThailandLiveaboards.com website for private dive boat charter as more and more groups are asking for the option of chartering a boat privately.

Private charters appeal to groups of friends, families and companies. Private charters are ideal if you have a mix of divers and non divers who want to do different activities. They also suit travelers with tight time frames and those who want to avoid the masses.

What type of charter boat you choose will depend on your requirements. All the liveaboards on our website are available for charter if you book early enough. We are now also offering speedboats for daily diving (and non diving) charter. Speedboats are a great way to dive in the high season when the sea is flat. You get to the dive sites quicker so spend more time enjoying the area.

For example, a slow dive boat to Phi Phi takes three hours to get there and three hours to get back. So that gives enough time in Phi Phi to do two dives. A speedboat takes 45 minutes to get there so as well as doing 2 dives you can also visit Maya Bay, feed the monkeys on Monkey Beach and enjoy a relaxed picnic lunch on a private beach.

Our private speedboat charters are flexible enough to fit around your requirements. Check out the charter page for prices or email me for a quote.

Discounts on Komodo Liveaboards August - October

Black Manta has a couple of special offers for last minute bookings on their Komodo liveaboards:

Black Manta Komodo Liveaboard

24-30 August 2011
7 days 6 nights Labuan Bajo - Komodo - Labuan Bajo
20 dives
Normal Price US$1,875
Discounted Price US$1,500

30 September - 4 October 2011

5 days 5 nights Labuan Bajo - Komodo - Labuan Bajo

13 dives

Normal Price US$1,375

Discounted Price US$965 plus FREE Nitrox (worth US$120)

More details here: Black Manta Komodo Liveaboard

Where to stay if you are diving Phuket

Phuket daytrip dives depart from:

Chalong Bay for Phi Phi Islands, Shark Point, King Cruiser Wreck, Anemone Reef, Koh Doc Mai, Racha Yai and Racha Noi diving. (Year Round).

Thap Lamu (Khao Lak) for Similan Islands and Koh Bon diving. (November to April)

With this in mind look at the map of Phuket here. Chalong Bay is in the south east of the island. Thap Lamu is one hour drive north of the island (not shown on this map).

For diving day trips departing from Chalong Bay. Most dive operators start picking up at their divers at Patong hotels. They then travel south to Karon, then Kata, then across to Chalong Bay. They do not pick up in other locations without special arrangement and extra charges.

Staying north of Patong beach is not ideal if you plan to be diving from Chalong Bay. There are some dive centres that will transfer you from Kamala but you'll spend more time in a minibus than if you stay at, say, Kata beach.

For diving daytrips to the Similans and Koh Bon from Thap Lamu. Transfers start in the south of the island at about 6am and work their way north up the west coast so in this case staying up near the airport in somewhere like NaiYang beach is better.

Phuket Town is not a good location for divers. Dive companies don't like going there. Koh Maphrao (Coconut Island) is also off the transfer route, as are Thalang, Mission Hills, Cape Yamu, Ao Por. You will need to arrange a private taxi if you stay in one of these locations. Most companies also charge extra for pick ups in Rawai, Naiharn, Ao Yon, Cape Panwa.

I understand that there are many other factors that go into picking your hotel location other than diving but it certainly bears thinking about if you plan on doing a few diving day trips.

Divers staying in Khao Lak also need to be careful with locations. Khao Lak is rather stretched out and some resorts are miles from the Thap Lamu boat pier and an extra fee for transfers may be charged.

Another issue is that some resorts that are actually off Phuket Island still advertise themselves as Phuket even though they are in Phang Nga. Khok Kloi resorts are an example of this. Some resorts advertise themselves as Khao Lak even though they are in Thai Muang or further.

If in doubt please contact us and we'll advise the best location for you.

Mai Khao Beach Phuket

 I was up around Mai Khao beach this weekend so I took a few photos to post here. I want to blog about it to divers because we are receiving more and more enquiries from divers who have booked a hotel in Mai Khao beach only to realise that it's miles from anywhere.

Mai Khao Beach, Phuket, August 2011

MaiKhao is on the north west coast of Phuket Island, north of Phuket airport and just south of the Sarasin Bridge. It takes about one hour to get to Chalong pier which is where most of the Phuket day trip dive boats depart from. Divers who stay in the south of Phuket get picked up and transferred to the dive boats in Chalong free of charge. Divers staying in MaiKhao beach will be asked for an extra taxi fare which could be as much as 1000 baht (US$30) each way.

For Similan diving day trips or liveaboards, Mai Khao is ok. Most companies will collect you on the way to Thap Lamu pier (Khao Lak). But that's only for diving from November to April. If you are staying in Mai Khao in the off season from May to October and you want to dive you must be prepared to pay extra and have a long transfer. This seems to come as a surprise to many divers who thought they were getting a great deal on low season hotel rates only to realise that they are now trapped in an exclusive resort with exclusive prices.

In fact getting anywhere from Mai Khao beach is going cost you big, the taxi drivers have you pretty much captive there unless you hire your own car. If you fancy an evening out in Patong beach it will take about 50 minutes and cost about 1000 baht, probably more coming back late at night.

On the plus side, Mai Khao beach itself is beautiful. It's a very long, almost deserted stretch of sand edged by casuarina trees. There are some fine resorts on Mai Khao including the JW Marriott. Where as Naiyang beach a little further south is maintaining a low key vibe, Mai Khao is becoming the luxury 5 star resort area of Phuket to rival Laguna Phuket. More chain hotels are opening, the Holiday Inn will be finished soon. There are some large luxury condo resorts like West Sands and the JW Marriott Vacation club (time share). There is a water park called Splash Jungle that looked empty when I saw it. I'm not surprised when it's 1495 baht for adults (750 baht kids) and the beach is just down the road. There is also a Turtle Village shopping mall if you enjoy paying inflated prices for your tourist souvenirs.

So in summary, it's not that I don't like the beach itself, it's just that I think the location is too remote, particularly for Phuket divers. I will post more shortly on the best locations to stay if you are diving in Phuket.

Nice place for a picnic

Looking south down Mai Khao Beach

Looking north, it goes for miles

This lagoon is just behind the beach.
There is a small road circling  it which makes for a
nice walk or bike ride.

Turtle Village shopping Mai Khao

Image from splashjunglewaterpark.com

Mai Khao Beach Splash Jungle water park

Down this track are some nice basic beach side bungalows
but the slightly odd owner wouldn't let me photograph.
Also there is a large hotel being constructed right next door.

Pretty

Not so pretty

Mai Khao

Backpacker Liveaboards in Khao Lak

Nangnuan budget liveaboard

We've just added three more liveaboards to ThailandLiveaboards.com. All three boats fall in the budget category and are popular with packpackers. All three boats depart from Khao Lak (we can arrange transfers if you are staying in Phuket).

There are a lot of lower budget dive boats departing from Khao Lak. New ones come and go all the time so it's hard to keep a check on quality. So we have chosen three boats from a long standing Khao Lak dive centre with a good reputation. We sold these boats last year on our KhaoLakLiveaboards website and got good feedback.

These liveaboards are great value. The prices include a full set of dive equipment (including dive computer). To book you just need to pay a 20% deposit. You can pay the balance when you arrive in Khao Lak.

MV Andaman does 4 day 4 night trips (13 dives) to Koh Bon, Koh Tachai and Richelieu Rock for 17,900 baht per diver (incl. equipment).

MV Mariner One offers 3 day 3 night trips (9 dives) for 15,300 baht per diver (incl. equipment). You can choose the Similan Koh Bon itinerary or the Surin, Koh Tachai, Richelieu Itinerary. Or combine both trips for just 26,900 baht.

MV Nangnuan is the real budget boat. There aren't many boats left like this. She's small and has no cabins. She takes just 8 dives who sleep on mats on the covered upper deck. Facilities are basic but everyone comes back happy from these trips. It's a friendly, fun boat and the diving is the same great Similan diving as on the fancier boats. Nangnuan does 3 day 2 night trips (9 dives) to Similan and Koh Bon for 11,900 baht per diver (including equipment). It's often necessary to book Nangnuan early because she only has 8 spaces available.

For a full list of our Similan liveaboards departing from Khao Lak and Phuket look here.